Cite: http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1680039

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THE WEST END.

EARLY MELBOURNE MEMORIES.

By EDWARD C. O. HOWARD.

I am possibly the oldest living native of Melbourne, and have seen all the changes that have taken place in the city during the last 60 years or so, notably in the western end. Strolling in that part the other day I was much struck, after an absence of many years, by its altered appearance, for in the "fifties" and sixties" it was the fashionable residential quarter, many of the leading families living there. All this has been changed, villas, cottages, and two storied dwellings having made way for fac- tories, stores, warehouses, and other places of business. In Collins street, from Queen street to Spencer street, not one of the original buildings is standing. It may, therefore, be interesting to mention some of the old structures, as well as a few of the colonists residing there in the early

days.

The Melbourne Chambers stood about   where the London Bank is, and on the first floor was conducted the business of the first Savings Bank, gazetted in 1838, and opened on January 1, 1842. Mr. C. J. Latrobe was the president, Mr. James Simpson the vice-president, and the trus- tees were Messrs. T. Wills, Skene Craig, James Graham, G. W. Cole, A. C. Thomp- son and others. Two doors from Queen street Mr. W. Bennett carried on the lead- ing business of a jeweller and watchmaker, and at the corner of Market street stood the printing office of Mr. J. P. Fawkner. The allotment at the corner of Queen street was originally purchased for £40, and after- wards fell into the hands of the Wesleyan body, who erected a church and clergyman's residence on it. The property was finally purchased from that body by the Bank of Australasia, and the church was taken down, the residence being allowed to re- main in the occupation of the staff of the superintendent's department of that insti- tution for some time after. Next to this structure stood the first building of the bank, erected in 1840; and adjoining it stood a large banking chamber, built about 1853, and in this the writer joined the ser- vice in 1854. The beautiful building at present occupying the corner was not, how- ever, erected until some time after the purchase.

In the early days a butcher's shop stood at the corner of Collins and William streets, and at a later period the Bank of New South Wales carried on business there in a new structure, which in turn was

taken down to make room for the present building of the Australian Widows' Fund Life Assurance Society. At the south- west corner of the same streets stood J. Batman's two-storied house, the spot being now occupied by the building of the Aus- tralian Mutual Provident Society. This allotment was originally purchased for £65. On October 2, 1839, Mr. C. J. La- trobe's commission was read by Mr. R. S. Webb, chief officer of Customs, in front of the mart of Mr. Charles Williams, au- tioneer, on the ground floor of Batman's house. From here down as far as where the Rialto stands, were the residences of Mr. Wickham, Mr. Kelsh, Commissary Erskine, and Mr. Skene Craig; and then came the property of Messrs. Allison and Knight, upon which was erected a flour mill facing Flinders lane. The rest of the land down to Spencer street was mostly vacant in the early "fifties." About the same time the old Western Gaol still stood on the north side of Collins street, be- tween King and Spencer streets, and not far from the rear were the military bar- racks. A detachment of the 11th Regiment was quartered there in January, 1852, the officers being Lieutenant Finch and Captain

Conran in command.

Batman's Hill was a pretty knoll covered with trees, for the most part sheoak, and was a favourite resort of the public. It sloped towards the river, and at the foot stood the abattoirs, a stone building, used afterwards as a morgue. In the early days it had been decided to set apart Batman's Hill and the surrounding land down to the river for botanical gardens, but the idea was given up in favour of the present site, near Government House. In 1847 a powder magazine was built on the western slope of the hill at a cost of £2,000, and was opened on January 22, 1848, Captain Sutherland being keeper.

Batman's Hill was the scene of horse racing, the course being on the grassy flat that partly surrounded the hill, and stretched away into the swamp. Cricket matches also were played there, and the citizens were frequently entertained by the beautiful band of the 40th Regiment. But in the early "sixties" it became apparent that railway requirements necessitated the

removal of this familiar landmark. In November, 1863, the magazine building was removed. The coopers house and guard- house attached were sold in February, 1864, and the old abattoir building in the follow- ing May. The contract for excavating the hill, in order to extend the terminus of the Spencer street railway station, and for the formation of an embankment in the swamp adjoining, was let to Messrs. Overend and Robb on November 10, 1863. By April, 1865, the work was nearly completed, and Batman's Hill soon became a thing of the

past.

In Bourke street, from Queen to Spencer streets, only a few of the original buildings are standing now, and among them may be mentioned the Britannia Inn; St.

Patrick's Hall, opened in June, 1849, in  

which the first Victorian Legislative Coun- cil held its meetings from 1851 to 1856; the Jewish Synagogue, the foundation-stone of which was laid in August, 1847; two cot- tages next to the Synagogue, one of which was occupied by Dr. J. Black, M.D., aud the other by the Rev. Mr. Chase, in the early days; Judge Barry's house, afterwards purchased by Dr. A. O'Mullane. M.D.; and of a building at the corner of Bourke and King streets, known in days gone by as the Government storekeeper's offices. In the very early days Mr. Robert Russell, chief officer of survey, resided in a cottage next to Judge Barry's property. At the corner of   Bourke and William streets stood a terrace of two-storied brick houses on the land now occupied by the building of Goldsbrough, Mort, and Co. Dr. D. J. Thomas resided in a cottage on the north side of Bourke street, between William and King streets, and a little lower down, not far from the latter street, stood the Southern Cross Hotel, where Bishop Perry and his wife took up their temporary quarters after ar- riving on the ship Stag in January, 1848. They came up from the bay in the paddle steamer Diamond, and were met at the wharf by a large number of people, includ- ing Mr. Latrobe and the Mayor, and were driven by Dr. Cussen, M.D., colonial sur-

geon, in his carriage to the hotel. This

hotel was demolished many years ago, the site being now occupied by a building of a more imposing appearance. Another build- ing I remember very well in the "fifties" stood at the corner of Bourke and Spencer streets. It was a two-storied brick dwell- ing, surrounded by a nicely laid-out garden, and was occupied by Mr. Robert Hoddle, successor to Mr. R. Russell, as surveyor- general of Melbourne. It must be over

60 years since the structure was taken down. Allotments 11 and 12, at the corner of Lonsdale and Queen streets, were pur- chased by my father, Mr. Charles Howard, at the first land sale, in June, 1837, the price being £41. He erected thereon an elegant residence, as it was described in the "Port Phillip Gazette" of June, 1839. In it I was born in April of that year. The property being sold, the residence was taken down, and for many years afterwards the spot was occupied by Tankard's Hotel,   which in turn was also demolished some time ago. My father went through the Peninsular war, and on the final evacuation of the British troops after Waterloo he was ordered to Sierra Leone. His next sta- tions were Bathurst, Windsor, and Sydney, New South Wales, and in 1837 he took charge of the Commissariat department in Melbourne, retiring from the army in 1841 with the rank of assistant commissary general. He died in 1852.

On the next block in Lonsdale street were some houses with attics, and then came Allotment No. 14, purchased for £39, at the first land sale, by Dr. Cussen, M.D., colonial surgeon, the writer's step-grand- father, who on it erected a tastefully finished dwelling. He received his appoint- ment from Sir Charles Fitzroy (Governor of New South Wales). He arrived in Mel- bourne by the steamer James Watt in 1837. Dr. Cussen was the first president of the Port Phillip Medical Association, and one of the founders of the Melbourne Club. During the years 1848-9 I lived with him for the purpose of attending an academy close by in Queen street, the head master of which was Mr. George Groves, a man of high attainments, who took much interest in scientific matters. It was widely thought at the time that Mr. Groves would have been the first official head of the Vic-

torian Observatory. For a considerable   time he published weather tables, which   were looked forward to by the public with much interest and confidence. After Dr. Cussen's death, his property was sold to the Government in 1853, the dwelling being turned into a printing-office under Mr. J. Farres. It was subsequently taken down, and replaced by a portion of the Law

Courts.

The western portion of Lonsdale street was quite a residential spot in the fifties and sixties. Among the prominent citi- zens living there then a few may be men- tioned, viz.-Dr. Lucas (of the 40th Regi-

ment), Mr. P. Turnbull, the Rev. T. Odell, Mr. Justice E. Williams (in 1858), Mr. C. Manton, Mr. E. P. S. Sturt (superinten- dent of police), Mr. Dunn (of H. M. Cus- toms), Mr. Dalmahoy Campbell (stock and station agent), Mr. M. Sievewright (solici- tor), and Mr. James Moore (official as- signee, afterwards comptroller of Savings Banks). In this section of the street there are now only two or three of the original buildings standing. Many years ago Mr. Odell's Congregational Church, near King street, was partly taken down and trans- formed into a warehouse. The after por- tion of the building is still visible from the street. On the south side of Latrobe street west, between William and King streets, there were, in the early days only a few small cottages and a two-storied house, the latter occupied by Mr. F. G. Smith, and from King to Spencer streets there were the Military Officers' Mess House (a large two-storied building owned by Mr. E. Westby), a public house, and a few more cottages, in one of which Mr. A. McCrae resided.

At the corner of William and Latrobe streets stood the Exhibition Building, con- structed of wood, iron, and glass in 1854. It was designed by Messrs. T. H. and S. H. Merrett, and opened in that year, the cost being about £26,000. The ceremony of   opening was performed by the Governor, Sir Charles Hotham, who was attended by Colonel Valiant and the officers of the 40th Regiment. The Exhibition remained open for about a month, but the building was used in various ways for some time after. In it Governor's levees and balls, readings, lectures, and oratorios were held and fancy dress balls were given by the Mayors of Melbourne. In 1861 it was used again for an exhibition of locally manufactured goods. In I866 the women and children wrecked in the Netherby, on King Island, were shel- tered there under the protection of a police officer. By this time the structure was getting into a state of decay, and at the end of 1869 it was demolished to make way   for the building of the Royal Mint, the foundations of which were well advanced in February, 1870.

On the opposite corner stood a neatly- constructed wooden cottage, with dormer windows in the roof, which was occupied by Captain G. H. Cole, R.N., in the early   days. A large brick building now stands on the spot. Adjoining this property was a large double two-storied house built (about 1848) by Captain Cain, and on the south side he resided himself. It was after- wards occupied by Mrs. Miles, and then by Mr. Patrick Hanna, who was a member of Parliament. Mr. Hanna erected a high flagstaff just inside the front wall, facing William street. This was taken down some time ago. Mr. Croke, Crown prosecutor, occupied the north side, and afterwards Captain Cole resided there after removing from the cottage next door. After that the place was a boarding house, and of late years it has been used as an electrical bath- ing establishment. This building, and the two-storied dwelling next to it, occupied by Dr. Cutts, M.D., many years ago, are     still in existence.

At the corner of William and Lonsdale streets stood the police barracks, of wooden construction erected not long after the Ex- hibition Building was opened. The Presby- terian Church now occupies the spot. A two-storied building, known as the Govern- ment offices, stood on a large block of land, bounded by Lonsdale street, William street, Little Bourke street, and Dr Cussen's pro- perty, and in it Mr. Latrobe had his official apartments. A flagstaff stood a little to the north of the structure, and a sentry box close by. The business of the Treasury was conducted there at that time. On the south-west corner of the block stood the two-stoned telegraph building, from the tower of which the time was indicated by the dropping of a basket ball at 1 o'clock every day. The Treasury was next placed in a two-storied structure close to the corner   of William and Lonsdale streets, where I often saw the arrival of the mounted escort with gold from the diggings. The area upon which the Government offices stood is now the site of the Law Courts.

On the east side of William street, be- tween Bourke and Little Bourke streets, stood a terrace of brick houses, one of them being occupied by Commissary Bridgen, and in a lane off William street, at the rear of Goldsbrough's wool stores, still stands a two-storied brick dwelling which is one of the oldest in Melbourne. Several bluestone buildings erected in the early days on the west side of William street, between Lons- dale and Bourke streets are still standing. At the corner of William and Bourke streets stood a villa, in which Mr. Justice E. Williams lived before moving to Lonsdale street west. Menzie's Hotel now occupies the site. Mr. W. F. Stawell resided in a cottage next to the hotel at the time when he was Attorney-General, and afterwards Chief Justice. The Hon. T. T. a'Beckett solicitor, resided in a house at the corner of William and Little Collins streets. Both Mr. Stawell and Mr. a'Beckctt were teachers at St James's Sunday school, the other teachers being Mr. Travers Adamson, Crown prosecutor; Mr. F. W. Howard, afterwards of the Stock Exchange; Mr. J. C. Walter, of the Civil Service; and Mr R. White, of H.M. Customs. I was one of the   boys in Mr. Stawell's class. In a building on the opposite corner, where the Aus- tralian Club stands, Mr. Greening carried on the business of a jeweller and watch- maker in the early days. He was then act- ing as clerk at St. James's Church. Mr. Edward Courtney, official assignee, occu- pied a cottage in Little Collins street, not far from Mr Greening's shop. A two- storied brick house with a balcony stood on the spot now occupied by the Queens-

land Insurance Co. Mr. H. F. Gurner, Crown solicitor, lived in it. It was after- wards occupied by Mrs. Goodsir, widow of the late Commissary Goodsir.  

In August, 1839, tenders were called for the erection of St James's Church, and on November 9 of the same year the founda- tion stone was laid by Mr. Latrobe on the three-acre block of land on the opposite side of William street. It was opened, al-

though not nearly finished, on October 2, 1842. An old wooden building did duty as a church while St James's was being built. My father was on the building committee, nominated by His Honour C. J. Latrobe, Esq., and in this old structure I was chris-   tened by the Rev. J. C. Grylls, the first in- cumbent, early in 1839. St. James's Church   was very well attended in the early days, the small south gallery being set apart for the Governor and his staff.

In concluding I may mention a few of the old structures still in existence. One is the Queen's Theatre, near Little Bourke street, erected in 1845 by Mr. John Thomas Smith, several times Mayor of Melbourne. In it Mr. and Mrs. George Coppin made their first appearance in Melbourne that year. Others are the Harp of Erin Hotel, at the corner of Lilttle Bourke street, ori-   ginally known as the Pastoral, the scene of the riots in 1846; the Crown Hotel, at the corner of Lonsdale street, and Mr. John Thomas Smith's three-storied house, not far from Latrobe street. Many years ago the business of the Treasury was trans- ferred to this building from the one near the corner of William and Lonsdale streets, and at the same time an addition was made on the north side, known as the Gold Office.

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